PHOTOGRAPH BY CATHERINE VIOX
Chef Danny Combs made a name for himself at Boca and Sotto before venturing out on his own. At his new “mostly French” restaurant Colette, which occupies the former Zula space across from Washington Park, he has built a more laid-back home for his focused, pristine cooking.
PHOTOGRAPH BY CATHERINE VIOX
As one might expect from a Sotto alum, the pasta is sensational. It’s made in-house and finds its way into dishes like the herbed cavatelli, bright green mini shells that soak up the liquid of the accompanying bits of braised lamb neck. And while I didn’t expect to see made-from-scratch pasta on a French menu, I quickly learned that Colette excels at defying expectations.
PHOTOGRAPH BY CATHERINE VIOX
While there is classic bistro fare, like steak frites, on Colette’s concentrated menu, there are also less familiar but equally classic French dishes like Brandade de Morue and the savory puff pastry known as Vol-au-Vent. The former, a silky emulsion of whipped salt cod served with rustic bread, was my favorite dish. Served warm and peppered with chives and roe, the dish ate like a creamy bowl of mashed potatoes, with the briny flavors of the sea ladled over them.
PHOTOGRAPH BY CATHERINE VIOX
While the cavatelli and brandade were studies in richness, Combs can also work wonders with a cleanly acidic dish like the shredded Parisian carrot salad, seasoned with parsley and toasted hazelnut. The dessert menu is not to be missed either, if my creamy, yeasty Mille-Feuille is any indication.
PHOTOGRAPH BY CATHERINE VIOX
One can turn to the extensive drink menu (also “mostly French”) to find a wine or cocktail to go with any dish on offer. I saw several diners stop in for a quick drink at the large bar near the front of the restaurant. Like Zula, Colette would function just fine as a wine and cocktail bar, though I can’t imagine coming to a place this good and not eating something.
1400 Race St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 381-1018, coletteotr.com
Facebook Comments